Nigerian chef makes history with Michelin star for her London restaurant
As the eldest sibling growing up in Nigeria, Adejoké “Joké” Bakare often found herself cooking for her family. When she moved to the UK nearly 20 years ago to study microbiology, she brought her passion for cooking with her. Today, her restaurant Chishuru has earned a Michelin star, making Bakare the first Black female chef in the UK to achieve this honor.
Chishuru began in 2020 as a temporary pop-up in Brixton, South London, and has since become one of the city’s premier dining spots. The name “Chishuru” is derived from the Hausa language and translates to “the silence that descends on the table when the food arrives,” a reflection of the love and passion Bakare pours into her cooking. “I always dreamed of owning my own restaurant, and receiving a Michelin star was the icing on the cake. I was ecstatic to be awarded one this week,” she told CNN.
A Flavorful Fusion
Located in central London, Chishuru offers a diverse range of West African flavors inspired by Bakare’s upbringing. With Yoruba and Igbo heritage from her parents and growing up in a Hausa region, her cuisine combines various regional influences. “There’s no single ‘Nigerian cuisine’; it’s a vast country with many food traditions that predate its modern borders,” Bakare explained.
Rather than aiming for “authenticity,” Bakare focuses on blending different culinary styles and creating innovative recipes. A standout dish is ekuru, a watermelon seed cake with pumpkin seed pesto and Scotch bonnet chili sauce. “It features ingredients many of our customers may not have tried before and looks quite unique,” she said.
Other notable dishes include charcoal-grilled guinea fowl breast, known as yassa, and a beancake, bone marrow, and omelet dish called moi moi. Bakare’s kitchen staff have recently undergone training in animal butchery to make the most of their meat offerings, including unique cuts like goat flatiron steak.
Expanding Horizons
In just a few years, Chishuru’s journey has been remarkable. Originally a three-month pop-up, it became a permanent restaurant following high praise from critic Jay Rayner in The Observer. TimeOut’s 2022 recognition as London’s best restaurant further accelerated its growth.
“It became evident that we had outgrown our small space,” Bakare said, reflecting on the challenges. “Securing a new location was not easy; several landlords rejected us because they couldn’t envision a West African restaurant in their space.”
Chishuru eventually found a new home on Great Titchfield Street, and nearby West African restaurant Akoko also earned a Michelin star. “It’s a fantastic story,” said a Michelin Guide chief inspector. “Bakare’s style is distinct, and the restaurant captures her personality and cooking: lively, generous, and immensely enjoyable.”
With her Michelin-starred status, Bakare now faces the challenge of managing increased demand. “We’re currently focused on handling the surge in interest and continuing to push the boundaries of what we do,” she said. “What I’m most proud of at Chishuru is the ability to cook my food my way. Few chefs have that privilege, and I feel truly blessed.”
As the eldest sibling growing up in Nigeria, Adejoké “Joké” Bakare often found herself cooking for her family. When she moved to the UK nearly 20 years ago to study microbiology, she brought her passion for cooking with her. Today, her restaurant Chishuru has earned a Michelin star, making Bakare the first Black female chef…