Michelin-starred restaurant closes because it’s too expensive
After 26 years of culinary excellence, Deanes EIPIC, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Belfast, Northern Ireland, is set to close by the end of 2023. Founded by Northern Irish chef Michael Deane in the 1990s, the restaurant earned its first Michelin star within a year of opening as Deanes in 1997.
The closure comes amid rising costs for both diners and the restaurant itself, exacerbated by the impacts of Covid, Brexit, and the cost-of-living crisis. The restaurant plans to relaunch with a new focus on offering better value for money.
Head chef Alex Greene, a finalist on “Great British Menu,” views this development as part of a broader trend in the hospitality industry. “EIPIC wasn’t struggling in terms of quality, but the cost of maintaining that high standard has doubled since the lockdown,” he explains. “We can’t justify doubling the price for our customers.”
With tasting menus priced at £100 (approximately $123), Deanes EIPIC was already positioned at the higher end of the dining spectrum. However, Belfast’s smaller population means fewer affluent diners compared to cities like London or Paris. Greene notes, “The traditional fine-dining model with white linen tablecloths and elaborate service seems to be fading. Modern Michelin-starred restaurants are more streamlined and cost-effective while still offering exceptional food.”
Labor shortages and rising operational costs are also significant challenges. “Finding dedicated and skilled staff is increasingly difficult and expensive,” Greene adds.
In 2024, Greene and Deanes EIPIC general manager Bronagh McCormick will relocate to the Mourne countryside south of Belfast to launch a new venture. The rural area, recently named a UNESCO Global Geopark and set to host the Irish Open golfing tournament, offers lower operational costs and a burgeoning food scene.
Deanes EIPIC’s closure mirrors other recent high-profile restaurant shutdowns. In January, Copenhagen’s renowned Noma announced its closure, with owner René Redzepi citing the unsustainability of the fine-dining model. Similarly, in August, Michelin-starred chef Michel Roux Jr. revealed plans to close his London restaurant Le Gavroche next January to focus on achieving a better work-life balance.
After 26 years of culinary excellence, Deanes EIPIC, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Belfast, Northern Ireland, is set to close by the end of 2023. Founded by Northern Irish chef Michael Deane in the 1990s, the restaurant earned its first Michelin star within a year of opening as Deanes in 1997. The closure comes amid rising…